once the porting is complete, do not leave the intake ports super smooth, they need to be roughed with a 40-50 grit sandroll at low pressure/rpm to set the surface to the proper finish. 080 width on your bottom cut under the actual seat angle, this is very important to allow the port to make the transistion to higher lift smoothly. try to avoid "spinning" the valves on the seats if your valve job has been done already, which it needs to be for you to properly shape the throat up to the bottom angle on your valve job, but you need to be careful in that area and use low pressure as to avoid running over the valve seat with the grinder. and you should bore-scribe the heads to the block being used, and get yourself 2 old valves that will fit in the seats low enough to just barely expose the outer-edge of the top angle of the valve job, this way you can work and blend the chamber directly to that edge, making for a seamless transition from the port to the chambers. another nice tool to have for factory irons heads, of any brand, is a sonic tester, sometimes core-shift can sneak up and bite you, but these are not cheap though, maybe you know someone that could let you borrow one, but they are nice to have for sure. for cast iron, you wont need a corse fluted burr, just use the fine serrated flute burrs, and another thing, try to use as large of a burr as the area you are working will allow, the smaller the burr, the smaller the cut, meaning you'll just make more work for yourself by using too small of a burr in a large flat area, kinda' like block sanding a hood, you use the same approach, and your port will look much more uniform and even on the surface, which means you'll use less sanding rolls & cross-buffs. one of the grinders should be set up for a flapper-paper shank as well, this is an excellent tool for the final shaping of the throat and short-turn areas, and also keep a bottle of porting fluid or ATF which works also, as it helps keep the burrs cool. but having multiple grinders i feel is a must also, this way you can load 4-5 grinders with different burrs, sand roll shank, which i use the blue aluminum-oxide rolls for cast iron, and a shank for cross-buffs (blue/red) blue being the corse, red is fine, if you are on a budget, LOWES has a very affordable grinder for about $25 bucks, the Dotco stuff is very exspensive. cast iron is bad for ya', and get some quality ear protection, makes a huge difference for your ability to focus. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. SEE SUMMIT RACING’S BUST-N-OUT BOLT REMOVAL TOOLS Summit Racing offers Bust-N-Out Bolt Removal Tool Kits for these fastener sizes:ĭon’t have a high speed grinder? Summit Racing also offers a nice selection of them. That saves the existing threaded hole and the component-and no more crooked bolts or studs. The existing bolt hole provides a guide for correctly aligning the burrs to the bolt surface. This greatly increases your ability to drill the broken bolt on-center. ĭesigned to be used with a high-speed die grinder, the extraction system contains two end cut carbide burrs to prepare broken fasteners for final drilling through their centers with the included drill bit. On other related articles about tools and CNC manufacturing, checkout. But once they wipe the tears away, they get back to work and get that fastener out with a Summit Racing Bust-N-Out Bolt Removal Tool. Summit Racing Bust-N-Out™ Bolt Removal Tools Now AvailableĪ broken bolt or stud is a guaranteed way to make a grown hot rodder break down and cry.
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